Hello and greetings to you!
I've been working on and off the past weeks on a sort of undershirt for Masamune because even though it's not really obviously visible if he has something under that torso armor plate or not.. I can't imagine it being terribly comfortable if there wasn't anything under it hahah.
I have not written about this earlier even though I did not make it all in one day.. I decided to write everything in a single post when it's done, which it now is. So I warn you now, a lot of ramblings and progress photos ahead. If anyone wonders why I take so much progress photos of the steps when I work on my Masamune cosplay it's because it's a big "project work" I have to do (yes, I chose to do a costume) and therefore I need to show how I work and document all progress so my supervisor can follow what I do and blah blah.
The first progress on this undershirt I made on the 6th January. I decided to use very dark blue tricot fabric because it was what was easily available and I figured that because Masamune's undershirt isn't shown it wouldn't really matter what color it was (and besides it would hardly be seen anyway) ... but I wanted either black, dark gray or dark blue.
I found some close enough pattern (or not, it was some kind of top.. I don't know really) and decided to use it. I fixed the fabric and pinned the pattern in place. It was a bit short so I lengthened it a bit too. Also I cut the sides straight instead of curved.
|Pattern pinned on fabric|
|Sleeve pattern pinned on fabric|
Because I've never sewn a long-armed shirt before I wasn't sure how the sleeve would fit.. yes, I found that upper shape weird. So to reassure myself I went and wrapped it around my arm after I had cut it out. At the same time I also decided to mark with a pin how far down I wanted the
chainmail net fabric to reach.
|Sweet Jesus, it indeed will become a sleeve! :DD lolololo|
Next thing was to cut out the net fabric for the sleeves. It would be on top of the sleeves, like a second skin. First I just put it on top of the fabric to see what it would look like when finished.
|Net fabric on top of sleeve. (pin marks how far I want it to reach)|
|Reference photo. As you can see the gauntlets reach pretty high, something elbow length..|
|Net fabric cut out to right shape and pinned in place|
|Sewing shoulder seams..|
I started by zigzaging the net fabric in place at where it ends on the sleeve, some 5 or so centimeters before the sleeve's "mouth".
|Net fabric zigzaged in place.. |
(I chose to zigzag because it felt more secure than just a straight stitch)
So I went and grabbed the sleeve pattern and put it beside until I could figure out which way it was supposed to be sewn on.. luckily the pattern was marked.
|Notice "Etu", it means front in Finnish|
|Looking at the left sides of pattern and sleeve you'll notice it curves slightly deeper..|
|Sleeve pinned in place|
|Sleeve attached to the body of the undershirt|
|Started sewing the sleeve closed|
|One sleeve sewn, about to sew armpit and go over to sewing the shirt's sides closed...|
|Excuse me very dark photo..|
With the sleeves sewn on and the sides closed I had the hemming and collar left to fix. I decided to hem the shirt's bottom first... but it was uneven.
I used the overlock to cut it straight and sew the edges so they don't fray. Then I switched over to the "normal sewing machine" and hemmed the bottom with a straight stitch.
|Hemming hemming ~|
(alien camera color anyone?)
|Zigzaging the opening of the sleeve..|
|.. and hemming it with a straight stitch|
What was now left was the collar. I had pretty much no clue how to make a collar so what I did was pretty much impromptu. I started by taking a measuring tape and measuring around the collar on the undershirt to figure out how long the collar needed to be to fit. Then I went to get some white fabric that had some stretch in it but still wasn't overly.. floppy. Found a fitting fabric at home.
Because I couldn't find the fabric pen I had to use pins instead to mark the fabric where I would cut. I thought a 10 cm wide collar would be enough. I added some extra length just in case.
|Fabric marked with pins|
|Collar fabric cut out|
(I cut off those.. err.. sides of the fabric with those small holes.. you know, which keep the fabric from fraying.. I have no idea what they are called)
|Went to get the roll of interfacing fabric, put collar half on it...|
|... and cut out two fitting pieces|
But when I thought about how to attach it things got weird; it wouldn't really work. I would need to sew the other ends together too so I would get one closed
|Like this. Now it looks like it could work...|
|Collar folded in half, now only 5 cm wide...|
|Notice the huge collar bump/gap.. ill-fitting...|
|After I had cut one end open again for a better fit|
|Better fit but both sides can't have aligned seams...|
I just decided to go with it and went to the overlock machine to sew the collar on.
|Sewing collar on|
When I was done I noticed the collar is more.. err.. bigger, than when I put the shirt on without a collar. Probably because of the fabric stretching during the sewing.
This sums up my feeling about this "fail" perfectly:
Oh, and during the collar progress, which I did today, I was in fact wearing kimono. I had worn kimono before deciding to sew and I didn't feel like changing clothes sooooo... as a final BONUS PIC here's my sewing outfit of today:
|Yes, that's a measurement tape and yes, I tied my sleeves so they wouldn't be in the way ~|
(mirror photo, I'm not dead...)
That's it. Next time I think I'll start on Masamune's coat for realz.. or at least that's the plan, hah!